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: RACELOGIC TRACTION CONTROL INSTALL : 
: Install time: about 2-4 hours
: Tools needed:
: 1) soldering iron and solder (or crimping tool and non-insulated 20-22 gauge crimps)
: 2) wire cutters/stripper
: 3) 10mm socket
: 4) flathead and #2 phillips screwdrivers
: 5) electric tape/heat shrink
: 6) multimeter (optional, but highly recommended)
: 7) double sided tape or velcro
: 8) utility knife
: 9) drill : IMPORTANT NOTES… READ FIRST!
: - This is a relatively easy installation. If you know how to use a screwdriver and can solder or crimp 2 wires
: together, you can install this unit. These instructions are very long, but that's only because I was very
: detailed about the simplest things (like how to splice, etc.)… so, don't be scared by the length. Read
: through the instructions in its entirety before starting. : - There are four main steps in this install…
: 1) Splice the ECU wires.
: 2) Splice the ABS sensor wires.
: 3) Mount the dials/switches.
: 4) Calibrate the unit and adjust your settings. : - Take your time and make sure all your electrical connections have good continuity after each soldering
: joint by using your multimeter (set on resistance) with the probes on either side of the solder joint (i.e. one
: probe at the pin of the harness connector and the other about an inch past the solder joint).
: - Wires which are multi-colored are denoted as follows… "main color/stripe", such that "white/green"
: means a white wire with a green stripe.
: - The pin number of a specific wire is indicated in parentheses after the color wire. For example,
: white/green (8) means the white wire with a green stripe that is connected to pin number 8 of the harness
: connector. : - Be sure to cover all exposed wires with electrical tape or heat shrink after soldering/crimping. : - Abbreviations used: ECU= electronic control unit (the brains of the car), ABS= antilock braking system : - If you have any questions, feel free to e-mail us…
: Bernie: bhsiao@newssun.med.miami.edu
: Orion: zttnut@yahoo.com : 1) DISCONNECT BATTERY
: Use a deep 10mm socket or wrench to disconnect the negative (-) terminal of the battery (the black cable). : 2) SPLICE ECU WIRES
: A.Access the ECU which is located under the passenger floorboard by removing the floormat,
: pulling back the top part of the carpet, unscrewing the four 10mm bolts that hold the wooden panel, and
: removing the wooden panel. For more detailed instructions and pics, see the FAQ for instructions on
: running an ECU diagnostic. : B. Disconnect the ECU by unscrewing the three 10mm bolts that hold it in place. Then, remove the
: harness from the ECU by unscrewing the 10mm bolt in the middle of the blue connector and pulling the
: connector out from the ECU. : C. Cut away some of the black insulation around the wires and using the diagram below, locate the
: 6 fuel injector wires (green circles).
:  : D. You can use the multimeter set on "resistance" to make sure you have the right wires. Put one
: probe into the ECU connector and the other on the cut wire. If you have zero ohms showing (means that
: there is continuity), then that is the correct wire. : E. Cut the fuel injector wire and connect the Racelogic wires to either end.
: NOTE: Do NOT splice the Racelogic wires into the intact fuel injector wire. You must
: CUT the stock fuel injector wire. By connecting the Racelogic wires to either end, it allows the signal to go
: from the ECU to the Racelogic unit, and then from the Racelogic unit to the injectors (as shown in the
: diagram below). Thus, the Racelogic unit essentially "intercepts" the ECU signals before they go to the
: injectors. You can connect the wires in one of three ways… 1) solder them, 2) crimp them, or 3) use the
: included male/female pins and plastic connectors to make your own connectors. If you choose option 3),
: then make sure you have the proper crimp tool ($5-10 from Radio Shack). Making your own connector is
: convenient if you ever need to take your Racelogic unit out (that way, you can just snap the injector wires
: back together), but it is more time consuming and easier to mess up if you don't have the right crimp tool.
: Make sure you put a female connector and a male connector on the injector wires and the correct ones on
: the Racelogic harness!
:  : - Connect the following 12 wires together… these are the ones going from the ECU to the
: Racelogic unit. : wire from ECU(pin#) TO wire going to Racelogic unit
: Inj.1 white (101) TO red
: Inj.2 white/green (110) TO orange
: Inj.3 white/red (103) TO grey
: Inj.4 white/black (112) TO green
: Inj.5 blue (105) TO yellow
: Inj.6 white/blue (114) TO pink : - Next, connect the following 12 wires together… these are the ones going from the Racelogic unit
: to the fuel injectors… : wire from Racelogic unit TO wire to fuel injector
: Inj.1 red/black TO white
: Inj.2 orange/black TO white/green
: Inj.3 grey/black TOwhite/red
: Inj.4 green/black TO white/black
: Inj.5 yellow/black TO blue
: Inj.6 pink/black TO white/blue : F. Splice the RPM wire.
: Splice the black/white Racelogic wire into the yellow/red (7) ECU harness wire (pink square in wiring
: diagram above) by removing a little bit of insulation from the yellow/red wire to expose bare wire and solder
: the black/white wire to it. NOTE: Here we are splicing into the INTACT wire… NOT cutting it
: like we did for the injector wires. : G. Splice the 12V ignition switched power supply.
: Splice the red Racelogic wire into the white (109) ECU wire (red square in wiring diagram above). Again,
: do NOT cut the white wire, just remove some insulation and connect the Racelogic wire to the bare wire.
: H. Ground the unit.
: Bolt the double black wire with the ring terminal to a suitable ground. I found a few nuts above and to the
: right of the ECU that I simply undid, slipped the ring terminal over, and retightened the nut over it. Do
: NOT try to attach the ground to a painted area.
:
: 3) SPLICE THE ABS CONNECTIONS
: A) Locate the ABS unit.
: - The ABS unit is behind the passenger seat. To access it, unscrew the two phillips screws that are outlined
: in green in the picture below, also unscrew the two that the green arrows are pointing to. (They're covered
: by little black covers that you can flip up with the flathead screwdriver).
: 
: - Prop up the center section and remove the last screw as shown below.
:  : - Pop out the two plastic gromits outlined in green below on the left side of the panel and prop the panel up.
: (I used my CLUB anti-theft device to prop up mine).
:  : B) Remove the ABS harness connector and splice in sensor wires. : - In order to remove the blue connector, 1)pull down on the metal tab and 2)pull the bottom of the
: connector out as shown below.
:  : - Cut away some of the black insul
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